Custodians of Mon Culture

Bang Kradi. Phrapadaeng. Koh Kred.

Story by Steve Van Beek




 

Like the citizens of ancient Angkor, Champa, and Ban Chiang, the Mon (or Raman, as they call themselves), are descendents of an advanced civilization. At its zenith in the 11th century, it was one of the most prosperous cultures in Southeast Asia. Its wealth, however, ultimately drew the covetous eyes of neighbours who were soon nibbling at the borders. Waves of Burmese invaders over several hundred years wore down Mon resolve. In the 18th century, the Mons were finally overwhelmed and absorbed into the Burmese realm. 

Unlike its predecessors, however, Mon culture lives and continues to flourish. While there are still pockets of Mon in Myanmar (Burma), large numbers fled to the Thai kingdom beginning in the mid-19th century and were given sanctuary in places sites they often occupy to this day. They gained renown for their pottery and later as boatmen delivering goods to markets in Bangkok.

Found in Ratchaburi, Sangkhlaburi and Nonthaburi’s Saladaeng district, Mon are most prominent in Phrapadaeng, their longest-established community, Bang Kradi and Koh Kred. Although Mons are now Thai citizens, they quietly observe their own traditions and speak their unique language.

The highpoints of this glowing tradition can be best witnessed each April when Mons celebrate Songkran in their inimitable style. There are also monthly merit-making rituals performed every major Buddhist holy day (the night of the full moon) at Bang Kradi.

The Mon Songkran celebrations occur one week later than the Thaicelebration on April 13 and offers activities distinct from Thai observances.

Tips

The residents of Bang Kradi only speak Mon or Thai. It is best that visitors are accompanied by a Thai speaking guide.

The Ban Mon Bang Kradi community is open daily. However, these are the best times to visit.

  • Every major Buddhist holy day (the night of the full moon) or wan phra yai. Plan to arrive at Wat Bang Kradi temple between 06.45 to 07.00 a.m. to witness the Mon Buddhist merit-making rituals. However, the 'house museums' are closed on Buddhist holy days to allow residents to participate in merit-making.

Buddhist holy days from March to December 2008:
March 21, April 20, May 19, June 18, July 17, August 16, September 14, October 14, November 12, December 12

  • During the Songkran New Year celebrations during April 13-15.

Click here for a MAP TO BANG KRADI

 

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